-
My
lights were off but now they're on, I guess I don't need
you.
Wrong, Wrong, Wrong!! If power goes out and back on by
itself it is a sign of a poor connection somewhere in
the circuit. This is the type of thing that can build
up heat to dangerous levels if not located promptly and
repaired.
Back To Top
- Why
do my bulbs keep burning out?
Bulbs can burn out from a voltage problem, but one of the
main causes We've seen is from vibration or loose bulbs.
If you are constantly changing the same bulbs try a "Rough
Service" type of bulb. These are more durable.
Back To Top
- Can't
you just put in a bigger Breaker?
No, The Breaker size is directly related to the size of
the smallest wire in that circuit. It is rated to ensure
that the current does not exceed the safe limits of the
wiring. The Breaker size cannot be increased without changing
to larger wires.
Back To Top
- But
it's been that way for years!
That may very well be that "it's been that way"
but that does not make it right. A Licensed Electrician
is trained to know what is Safe and Proper Wiring. When
he is asked to repair something he is bound by duty to do
it right. Please don't ask him to do otherwise.
Back To Top
- I just need
you to hook it up.
Many times We come across a situation in which some (often
undisclosed) person has installed wiring in the hopes of
saving money, and requests that the Electrician "Just
hook it up to the Box" ... Well, very often this is
not as much of a money saver as people would like to think
... Any reputable electrician will want to know something
about what he (or she) is being asked to hook up. This may
take some time to investigate, and very often if some violations
are discovered things may have to be done over again. (There
goes the "Savings") The Moral is: If any Electrical
work is to be done it should be done by a Qualified (Licensed)
Electrician. This often proves to be the money saving (and
time saving) solution.
Note:
In some instances an Electrician may even refuse
to work on jobs like this.
Back To Top
-
Can
I get a FREE Estimate?
Now, it's understood that a Consumer wants, and has the
right to know what a particular product or service will
cost them, but in all fairness (to both parties) there
are a few things that should be understood. Giving an
estimate on an installation is sometimes easier than giving
one on repairs. A Contractor may be reluctant to come
give an estimate on repair work unless they are assured
of getting the job if their price is within some predetermined
limits. If the answer to the problem is not immediately
obvious, you may expect to pay something for these diagnostic
services. Repairs may sometimes have a very simple solution,
but it may take some extensive labor and troubleshooting
procedures to find out what that solution is, and the
Contractor has a right to be compensated for this.
Recommendation:
Choose a Reputable Local Contractor (with references if
necessary).
Back To Top
- What
is the difference between a floodlight and a spotlight?
A spotlight has a small light spread 10°-12° and
is used to place direct light on a small area or object
such as a flagpole. A floodlight spreads out a lot more
light 40° and is used to light a large area.
Back To Top
- Do
I need to buy a special bulb for my garage door opener?
It’s best to use a rough service bulb.
Back To Top
- What
is a transformer?
It’s a device that changes the voltage. In most home
usage, it reduces the voltage for use on low-voltage equipment,
such as thermostats, doorbells and low-voltage outdoor lighting.
Back To Top
- My
doorbell doesn’t work, do you know what’s wrong
with it?
There are three components to the doorbell; the button,
the transformer and the bell itself. First, look for any
loose wires throughout the system. If all the wires are
connected, test the doorbell button by removing it and touching
the two wires together. If this makes the doorbell work,
you have a bad button that is easily replaced.
Back To Top
- Do
all of the outlets in my kitchen need to have ground-fault
circuit interrupters?
No, if the first in the series is GFCI, then all are protected.
Back To Top
- I
have a water pipe in an unheated garage. How can I protect
it from freezing?
Wrap the pipe with heat tape, which comes in different
lengths.
Back To Top
- How
do I troubleshoot a fluorescent fixture that doesn’t
light?
Normally, the bulb has gone bad. But also check the lampholders
and starter. Make sure all wire connections are tight. Lastly,
it may need a new ballast.
Back To Top
- What’s
causing my fluorescent fixture to hum?
The ballast probably needs to be replaced. Another sign
of a faulty ballast is black tar-like substance oozing from
the fixture.
Back To Top
- Can
I use any extension cord outside?
Never use an interior extension cord outside. Exterior extension
cords are designed with a tough outer jacket that protects
the inner wire. Protect outdoor extension cord connections
by using a plastic outlet cover.
Back To Top
- Is
there a special receptacle I should install outside?
Yes, there is a special box with a cover designed to protect.
In addition, the receptacle should also have ground-fault
circuit-interrupt protection.
Back To Top
- I
have low-voltage outdoor lighting. Can I add additional
lights?
We will have to look at your transformer to determine what
its maximum wattage is. Most bulbs are 4 watts, but they
come in different wattages. We will have to add up what
you are currently using.
Back To Top
- The
outdoor light by my garage and my post light go out frequently.
What is causing this?
First, make sure you are using rough service bulbs
recommended for exterior use. Next, check your garage door
for extra movement. We can install angle brackets on the
garage door to limit vibration. Bumping into the post light
when trimming weeds is often the cause of that light going
out.
Back To Top
- My
dusk to dawn light doesn’t go off and remains on all
day. Do I need to replace it?
First find the sensor and see if it is being obscured by
something. If not, we can probably just replace this sensor.
Back To Top
- My
dusk to dawn motion detector doesn’t come on. What’s
causing this?
There is a switch inside the house that needs to be turned
on.
Back To Top
- I
am going on vacation. Are there any easy-to-use products
that will turn my lights on and off so it looks as if the
house is occupied?
Yes, there are a variety of timers that simply
plug in.
Back To Top
-
Are
Portable Space Heaters Safe?
These units could be one of the major causes of fire in
a home and should be avoided if possible. If you have
to use these heaters to keep from freezing please, do
not leave these units on when you leave your home. Do
not place these units next to combustable materials (drapes,
curtains etc.). Do not use a heater rated higher than
the circuit it is plugged into. A 2,400 watt heater would
draw 20 amps. It would be a fire hazard to plug this unit
into a 15 amp circuit. This could overheat the receptacle
and circuit wiring before tripping the breaker.
Back To Top
- How Safe Are Cords?
Another major cause of fires in the home are extension
cords and cords connected to appliances and tools. Extension
cords should be used only as a temporary wiring method.
Instead of using a cord for a permanent wiring method add
more outlets. Most extension cords will not carry as much
current as the normal house circuit without overheating.
Check all cords for frayed or cracked insulation or damaged
plugs. Make sure they are placed out of areas where they
will get excessive wear such as under carpets or in doorways.
Do not use an appliance or tool that uses more amperage
than the cord is rated for. Do not use indoor cords outside.
All outside cords should be plugged into a GFCI. protected
outlet. Use only UL approved cords. When removing a cord
from an outlet, grasp the plug. Do not pull on the cord.
Back To Top
- Can I
do my own electrical repairs?
I expect that if you need to ask, the answer is
probably NO!
Electricity can be dangerous!
Electrical work done inproperly can create situations that
cause electrocutions and fires!
... and people are always asking such basic questions that
suggest they haven't done ANY research or study at all ...
All the dangers and risks aside, could I do brain surgery?
Perhaps, with information, training, experience and support!
Can you fix your car (like the shop does) or put up a wall
(like on those construction sites with new homes you drive
past, not just fiddled together)?
Do you know garbage work when you see it? Are you stubborn
enough to do it right even if it is a pain in the neck and
you can see five ways to do it that " ... wouldn't
be the right way, but it'll work" ... then get information
and look for support so you can get educated, trained and
experienced.
There is nothing more satisfying than doing it yourself.
Ask any two year old!
Back To Top
- I
have a 200-amp panel that is making some noise...
I would be concerned. Panels shouldn't make buzzing
noises. If it is not something obvious, like a doorbell
transformer, I would be concerned that there is a loose
fitting breaker and that the buzzing noise is the sound
of the breaker/busbar contact point burning up under load.
A symptom might be a "hot" breaker. I would have
this inspected by someone qualified.
Back To Top
- When
is it time to call an electrician?
When you are resetting circuit breakers or changing
fuses to often. When you turn on your air conditioner and
the lights dim in the room. When your lights flicker or
go on and off. When you can smell electricity burning. When
you have six electronic devises going into one outlet in
back of your electronics center. When you have receptacle
outlets overburdened by multi-plug strips. When a three-prong
plug needs a two-prong adapter. If you have to run extention
cords to plug in electrical devises.
Back To Top
- What causes
lights to dim?
If your lights dim when an appliance (fridge, air cond,
etc.) comes on, check to see if the lights are on the same
circuit with the appliance. Most fixed appliances (fridge,
air cond, etc.) should be on a dedicated circuit back to
the main panel. These devices draw quite a bit of current
in the first second or so when they first start up.
If all the lights in your house are dim all the time or
periodically, the problem could be at the local utilities
substation, transformer or their service feed coming into
your house. This is one of the first thing you might want
to have checked.
Your lights could dim if the wiring in your house is not
large enough, it will have too much resistance. When a large
current is present in the wire, there will be a significant
voltage drop, leaving less voltage available to your lights.
If the light in your house dim and also get brighter it
could indicate a lot more serious problem, a loose, broken
or corroded neutral wire. Electricity is usually delivered
to your home via three wires, two hot and one neutral. Each
120 volt circuit taps one hot wire and the neutral. A 240
volt circuit taps both hot wires. If the neutral wire comes
loose, there is a risk that the 120 volt circuits will,
at least momentarily, be supplied with 240 volts. The problem
could be with the utility company connections, the main
panel, or the branch circuits.
Back To Top
- What is
a ground rod?
A ground rod is a metal shaft used for grounding. With plastic
pipe now being used for water systems these rods are being
used for services and other devices to be grounded. These
rods are to be driven in the ground at least 8 ft. These
rods when made of iron or steel shall be at least 5/8 inches
thick. Non ferrous rods should be free of paint or any other
non coductive material shoud be listed and not less than
1/2 inches thick.
Back To Top
- How can
i save money on my electric bill?
The most electricity in your home is used by Electric Heat,
Air conditioners, Electric Hot Water and your Electric Dryer.
You could help by getting an automatic thermostat. Those
long showers are nice but there costing you extra money.
Do you really need to run that dryer that often? One other
thing that could cause a problem would be a bad breaker
or loose connections at the breaker.
Depending on what part of the country you live in, heating
and cooling are the largest contributors to most household
energy bills and are the best places you can look to save
money. After making sure your home is well insulated, make
sure your heating and cooling systems are running efficiently
and central systems are checked annually.
To keep equipment running efficiently, keep heating and
cooling air ducts clean and outdoor equipment free from
dirt and other debris.
Back To Top
- Where do you put
G.F.I.'s?
Any bathroom or garage outlet within 6' of a sink must be
GFCI protected. The code also requires all kitchen outlets
for countertop use to be GFCI protected. GFCI outlets must
be installed in any area where electricity and water may
come into contact, including basements, pools, spas, utility
rooms, attached garages and outdoors. At least one GFCI
outlet is required in an unfinished basement and for most
outdoor outlets.
Back To Top
- What
size service do i install in my home?
Most states call for 100 amps minimum, but with all the
new electronic devices, air conditioning and electric heat,
I would suggest 200 amps especially in new homes. This also
gives you some space for future additions. This is not a
job for an unlicensed person to attempt. In most cases it
involves replacing everything from the service loop (this
is the wire that extends from the top of your meter to the
utility tie in ) up to and including the main panel.
Back To Top
- What
are Recent Statistics on Residential Electrical Deaths and
Injuries?
The latest figures from the U.S. Consumer Product Safety
Commission (CPSC) indicate that there are over 400 electrocutions
in the United States annually.
Approximately 180 electrocutions are related to consumer
products.
Large appliances were responsible for 10 percent of consumer
product electrocutions.
Wiring hazards—including damaged and exposed wiring
and household wiring together accounted for 20 percent
of the electrocutions.
Ladders contacting power lines cause 9 percent of electrocutions
annually.
Power tools are responsible for approximately 9 percent
of electrically related deaths. Landscaping, gardening
and farming equipment are listed as the causes of 7 percent
of consumer electrocutions annually.
But that is only part of the story. According to statistics
from the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA),
there are over 30,000 home fires annually associated with
electrical distribution systems (wiring), resulting in
over 200 deaths, nearly 1,000 injuries and over $600 million
in property damage. These fires are caused by faulty electrical
distribution systems, While these numbers are lower than
that from previous studies, continued awareness of electrical
hazards, combined with product improvements are necessary
to continue this trend.
ESFI, along with our sponsors, is dedicated to continuing
to increase electrical safety awareness at home and in
the workplace.
Back To Top
-
How do I change a light bulb?
- Identify the bulb-type that needs to be changed. Check whether it is a screw-in or bayonet type, and whether you have a new one in stock.
Note: Keep a light handy. You may need it to change a bulb after dark.
- Switch off the mains switch on the distribution board or electricity dispenser.
- Switch off the light at the light switch or wall socket.
- Note: If a lamp's bulb is to be changed, switch off the lamp switch and remove the plug from the wall socket.
- Remove the faulty bulb. If the bulb is a bayonet type, insert it carefully into the light socket, and twist it gently until the bayonet pins slot into place. If the bulb is a screw-in type, insert it carefully into the light socket and turn it clock-wise until it sits firmly in the light socket.
- Switch on the mains switch on the distribution board or electricity dispenser and then switch the light on.
- Discard the old light bulb safely.
Back To Top
-
How do I deal with an electrical shock?
- The first thing to do is to switch off the electricity at the mains (everybody in the house should know where the main switchboard is).
- Hands must then be covered with dry rubber gloves or several layers of dry newspaper. There is great danger that the person helping the victim could also get a shock if he / she touches the victim's body before the plug has been switched off.
- If possible, switch off the electricity at the wall plug where the appliance causing the shock is plugged in, and unplug it.
- If the victim is in contact with the appliance causing the shock, he / she must be removed as quickly as possible.
- Pull the victim into the clear by getting hold of his / her dry loose clothing. You can also push the victim away by using a broomstick or a chair. Make sure that the broomstick is dry and that you are not touching any metal parts.
- Get someone to call a doctor or Ambulance Service immediately. If this is not possible, start giving first aid as follows:
- If the victim's breathing has stopped or is not normal, apply mouth-to-mouth breathing and massage the heart immediately.
- Treat any injuries that may have been caused by the victim falling. Do not smear ointment on any burn. Protect the burns from the air with sterilised bandages.
- Get any electrical accident victim to a hospital or doctor as soon as possible even if they say they are OK.
Back To Top
-
How can I be safe around my home?
Always conduct Routine Safety Inspections
Appliances needing repairs or replacement should be attended to immediately. Not doing so could result in an accident. In your home, breakages and excessive wear and tear on electrical equipment can occur frequently so you need to make regular inspections and take precautions to ensure your safety.
Back To Top
-
Safety with plugs and sockets
In this day and age, plugs are an essential part of our lives as we depend on electricity for almost everything we do. Therefore, it is important for people of all ages to know how to use plugs safely. The following tips are for you to use when buying and using plugs.
- Look for the SABS sign and only use SABS approved plugs.
- Do not overload plugs - rather use an adaptor.
- Do not pull a plug by the cord.
- Switch the switch off at the wall socket, before pulling the plug out.
- Do not connect electrical appliances to light sockets.
- Ensure that all wall sockets have their switches in the "off" mode, when not in use.
- Never put bare wires into sockets.
- Do not stick fingers into sockets.
- If there are babies in the house, ensure that wall sockets are covered with a safety cap, keeping the area safe for babies to play in.
Back To Top
-
Safety with cords
Cords, like plugs, are an essential part of our environment. Cords also represent a safety hazard and as such, the tips that follow should be used to minimise any potential dangers that cords can cause.
- Do not use frayed cords - replace worn and frayed cords on appliances immediately.
- Keep cords well away from hot stoves and other hot surfaces.
- Do not run electric cords under carpets and rugs.
- Do not join cords with tape.
- Do not run cords through hinges.
- Do not run cords where people can easily trip over them.
- Use SABS approved electrical wires or cords.
Back To Top
-
Electricity and Water
Since water is an excellent electricity conductor, it can cause electric shocks or short circuits very easily. The general rule is thus to keep water in and around the home, away from any electrical appliances and any wall sockets.
- Do not use electrical appliances in the bathroom.
- Never touch electrical appliances with wet hands.
- Never fill a kettle when it is plugged in.
- Never mow wet grass with an electric lawnmower.
- Never hold an electric appliance in one hand while touching metal objects such as taps, fridges or stoves with the other. This is because our bodies are made up of 70% of water and they thus become very good electricity conductors.
- Never use water to put out an electrical fire if the mains are not switched off. Use a dry chemical fire extinguisher instead.
Back To Top
-
Electricity and Children
When babies start to crawl or walk, extra care has to be taken that they do not harm themselves. Children are naturally interested in cords and plugs and their curiosity could lead to serious accidents. Here is some advice on how to make sure that your children are safe.
- Children love playing with loose hanging wires. Make sure that the cords of your iron and kettle are not left hanging where a child can pull them, thereby causing a hot iron or kettle to fall down and burn the child.
- If you have turned a heater on, watch your child carefully so that he / she does not stick their fingers through the grill and touch the hot bars of the heater.
- Do not let children play with electrical cords - they can chew on a live wire.
- Teach children not to play with electrical sockets. Keep all unused plugs in the house covered with a safety plug. Babies love to stick their fingers into the plug holes.
- Teach your children not to fly kites near power lines.
- Do not allow children to release metallic balloons outside.
- Never allow children to climb electric poles.
- DO not play with children on or near an electrical installation.
Back To Top
-
Outside the home
There are a few situations outside the home that could be dangerous:
- When working with any electrical appliance, like power drills, make sure that they are connected properly. Never use them in damp or wet areas.
- Do not enter electrical sub-stations - the voltage is extremely high and very dangerous.
- Do not touch any electrical power lines. Under no circumstances should you ever go near them. All power lines are very dangerous.
- Do not make a fire underneath power lines.
- Never climb onto electric pylons.
- Do not play or build houses under power lines.
- Do not throw stones at insulators.
- Do not cut down trees next to power lines.
- Do not touch power lines that have fallen to the ground.
- Do not carry long objects under power lines.
Back To Top
-
Plugging in safely and correctly
- Overloading a plug can cause a fire. A multi-plug adaptor will allow you to use as many appliances as needed without the risk of overheating.
- Pulling a plug out by the cord can expose bare wires. Pull it out by gripping the plug itself and make sure the power is switched off.
- Broken plugs or loose wires are dangerous. Always use SABS approved plugs and make sure there are no loose wires.
- Putting electrical wires directly into a socket can cause accidents.
- It is dangerous to plug electrical appliances into light sockets. They should only be plugged into wall sockets.
Back To Top
-
Senior citizens safety around electricity
- If you are using an extension cord, never let it run under carpets or rugs - place it in a "no-trip" zone.
- If the plug you are using has a different number of pins to the electrical outlet, use an adapter that will accommodate both the plug and the outlet.
- To avoid an accident, keep heaters and fans a safe distance from your curtains and furniture - at least 3 feet away.
- Using the correct fuse is important. When you replace a blown fuse, make sure of its size as the wrong one could cause a fire.
- Electricity outlets and switches should always be cool to the touch - if the aren't call a technician to fix it for you and NEVER touch it yourself.
- Unplug any of your small appliances when you are not using them, eg. Toasters, irons, hairdryers.
- Do not use electric blankets with loose wires - they could cause a fire or shock. Do not tuck in or squeeze wires as this is also very dangerous.
- Turn your heating pad off before you go to sleep.
- Use the specified watt light bulb as indicated on the light fixture.
- In case of an accident and your clothes catch fire, don't panic - 'DROP' and 'ROLL'.
Back To Top
-
General Safety
- Never change a light bulb without first making sure that the electrical current is first switched off
- Do not use a for or knife or anything made of metal to remove toast from a toaster when it is plugged in
- If you see sparks or smoke from an electrical appliance, it is telling you that something is wrong. Unplug it and call an electritian. Do not work on an electrical appliance unless you know exactly what you are doing and make sure that it is not plugged in
Back To Top
-
How do I wire a plug?
- Bare the ends of the three wires inside the electrical cord for about half a centimeter, by cutting away the plastic insulation.
- Gently twist the strands of copper wire with your fingers until each strand is tight.
- Fold over the twisted strands.
- Remove the plug cover by either "snapping" or unscrewing it.
- Unscrew the little screws on each of the plug's pins.
- Insert the twisted copper wires into the holes in the pins.
- The green and yellow wire must always be inserted into the top pin.
- The blue wire is inserted into the left pin (the pin is marked with a blue spot or the letter N).
- The brown wire is inserted into the right pin (the pin is marked with a brown spot or the letter L)
- Tighten the little screw on each of the plug's pins.
- Make sure the electrical cord is firmly gripped by the arrestor clips.
- Replace the cover of the plug.
Back To Top
-
What is the difference between IC and non-IC recessed lighting fixtures?
IC fixtures can be directly buried in insulation and in direct
contact with combustible building materials, such as wood joists & flooring members.
Non-IC must maintain at least 3" from insulation on all sides, and none on top so as
to entrap heat, with a minimum of 1/2" from combustible material
(such as wood joists and flooring members).
Back To Top
-
Is voltage important?
Yes. For best operation, it is very important that the designated voltage marked on
your bulb corresponds to the circuit voltage on your electric line or outlet.
Thus, a 120-volt bulb should be used on a 120-volt current.
Any substantial difference from this will cause wide variation in the life and
efficiency of the bulb.
Back To Top
-
Is it more energy efficient to leave a lamp on or to turn it off?
Since there is no surge involved in the starting of any residential bulb, the
answer is if you are not using them, turn them off.
HID (high intensity discharge) lamps (unusual inside houses) and
fluorescent lamps have different operating needs. If you have a fluorescent lamp,
the general rule is turn the lamp off unless you are going to need it again within
fifteen minutes. Frequent cycling, turning on and off for short periods of time such
as in a closet application, can reduce the life of a fluorescent lamp.
Back To Top
-
Why does an incandescent bulb darken over the life of the lamp?
During use, tungsten from the filament evaporates
into the gas inside the light bulb. When the tungsten comes in contact with a cool surface
it will condense. Often, with incandescent products, the tungsten condenses on the bulb
wall, eventually accumulating, and causing darkening of
the bulb.
Halogen light bulbs eliminate the bulb darkening because halogen light bulbs have a
special gas inside their bulb containing halogens. The halogen gas facilitates the
"halogen regenerative cycle" which means that the halogens carry the evaporated tungsten
back to the filament instead of allowing it to deposit on the bulb wall.
Back To Top
-
How does a light bulb actually work?
Basically, an incandescent Bulb is a simple device - just a tungsten wire sealed in a
glass tube. The electric current passing through the wire heats it to incandescence,
and the wire produces light. Suppose you took a dark piece of metal. If you heat it in
a furnace, it becomes hot and radiates heat, but at first shows no visible effects.
As temperature is increased, it turns a dull red, therefore emitting not only heat, but
also some light. As the temperature is increased further, it turns to a cherry red,
then yellow, and at temperatures of about 4600 F, it radiates a bright, nearly
'white-hot' light. For the incandescent lamp, energy is supplied electrically to make
up for the energy, which is radiated as heat and light.
Back To Top
-
What are the benefits of dimming an incandescent lamp?
Using a dimming switch on an incandescent light bulb will not only reduce the energy
consumption of the lamp, but also it will extend the life of the lamp. A 10% reduction
in voltage (12 volts) in a lamp designed for 120 volt operation will extend the life
almost 400%. However, light output is reduced by 1/3. For example, if you use a 100-watt
standard household incandescent dimmed by 10%, you'll save 10% energy, extend the life of
the lamp, but the light bulb would have about the equivalent light output as a 60-watt bulb.
Back To Top
-
Does an MR16 Halogen lamp provide much UV?
Tungsten filament lamps, such as Halogen and Incandescent provide minimal UV.
GE's ConstantColor® MR16 lamps are made using special quartz, which has properties that
enable it to filter out nearly all of the UV portion of the spectrum.
Back To Top
-
What is a Halogen bulb?
Halogen is a type of incandescent lamp. It has a tungsten filament just like a regular
incandescent that you may use in your home, however the bulb is filled with halogen gas.
When an incandescent lamp (one which produces light by heating a tungsten filament)
operates, tungsten from the filament is evaporated into the gas of the bulb and deposited
on the glass wall. The bulb "burns out" when enough tungsten has evaporated from the
filament so that electricity can no longer be conducted across it. The halogen gas in a
halogen lamp carries the evaporated tungsten particles back to the filament and re-deposits
them. This gives the lamp a longer life than regular A-line incandescent lamps and
provides for a cleaner bulb wall for light to shine through.
Back To Top
-
What is the difference between line voltage and low voltage?
Line voltage in the United States is 120 volts. It is the voltage that is supplied to your
home or office. Low voltage is less than the supplied voltage. Some lamps, like
GE's ConstantColor® PreciseT MR16 lamps, run on low voltage. Getting low voltage to lamps
requires that the supplied electricity (at 120 V) passes through a transformer to reduce
it prior to operating the lamp.
Back To Top
-
Why do fluorescent lamps need a ballast?
Ballasts are used to regulate the current in the lamp. Current needs to be regulated in
order to supply the right amount of power needed to make the arc, and thus the light,
in a fluorescent lamp. Fortunately, the current is lower than that needed for a typical
incandescent. This is the reason why the fluorescent lamps can provide the same light
output for less energy than typical incandescents.
Back To Top
- What type of fixtures should I buy?
Generally speaking, the type of lighting you choose will depend on the task at hand, and your preference in taste.
Back To Top
- Why do my bulbs burn out so quickly?
Bulbs burn out prematurely for a number of reasons. The more common include:
A. The bulb not making good contact in its socket.
B. There could be a loose or otherwise bad connection somewhere in the line.
C. Changes in voltage from the Electric Company (including spikes, and surges).
D. Having the bulb in a fixture that does not let it disperse the heat it gives off (too closed up).
E. Putting in a higher wattage bulb than what is recommended for that particular fixture.
E. You may be using low quality bulbs.
As funny as it may seem, another possibility may be that there is no actual problem and the bulb actually finished its life expectancy. Most incandescent bulbs have a life span of between 700-1000 hours. So, for example, a standard bulb being used everyday for 5 hours, will last about 4.5-6 months. Even less, if you use it more frequently. A bulb that is on most of the day (as you may find in a store or office) will last half that time.
Back To Top
-
When the bulb burns out it sometimes shorts out the fuse and even explodes. Why?
To explain, I must get a little technical. When the filament in the bulb breaks, an arc sometimes forms. This arc often expands until it is across the entire filament. Usually when this happens things get a bit unstable, since the more conductive arc would draw even more current. The arc easily becomes conductive enough that it draws a few hundred amps of current. At this point, the arc often melts the parts of the filament that the ends of the arc are on, and the arc glows with a very bright light blue flash, and at the same time, causing the fuse to burn or breaker to trip. Many good quality bulbs have a small built-in fuse inside the base that would normally burn before your breaker has a chance to trip.
Back To Top
-
Do I really save money by using those EL or SL type light bulbs?
Well I suppose it depends. EL or SL bulbs, better known as compact florescent light (CFL), are designed to use 60-75% less energy, and to last 10 times longer, than standard bulbs. But there are two small problems. One problem is that there are many manufactures producing cheap, inferior CFL bulbs that are not "up to par" with what the quality brands have to offer. They have many shortcomings including shorter life span, less light (lumens) per watt, and some even start to dim considerably after a month or two of use. The better quality brands work much better, but they aren't cheap. You can probably buy at least 25 or 30 incandescent light bulbs for the same price. But never-the less, due to their long life span and their efficiency, the CFL bulbs do save you some money on the long run.
Back To Top
-
Do I really save money by using a dimmer?
Yes, but not as much as you think. Even though the light gets dimmed, the electricity saved is not proportional. For example, if you dimmed a 75 watt incandescent lamp by 25 percent, you will still be using around 66 watt. This is because the lamp still uses a lot of energy to generate infrared heat. The bulb becomes less efficient. Personally, I am not a big fan of dimmers, and recommend them only where absolutely needed.
Back To Top
- Are halogen bulbs better than traditional bulbs?
It depends on what is meant by better. Halogen bulbs are more efficient than the traditional incandescent bulbs, but they burn hotter and are more costly. Sometimes, it's not a question of better or worse, but rather of what's better for a particular job.
Back To Top
-
Does frequently switching a fluorescent light, on and off, shorten its life span?
Yes, unfortunately that's true. Therefore it is recommended that they be used where the lamp would be lit for a certain amount of time, and not switched off and on every few minutes. On the other hand, it does not mean that you should keep your fluorescent lights on all the time even if they aren't actually being used. This will also be a waste of energy.
Back To Top
-
I would like to install 3 small 12V (low voltage) halogen lamps in the bathroom ceiling. Would it be better to feed all three bulbs from one large transformer, or install a smaller, individual transformer ?for each lamp?
I know that it sounds like a good idea to have one large transformer feeding to all three halogen lamps (mainly because of cost), but actually it would be much better to have individual transformers, one for each lamp. I would also recommend getting a good brand electronic transformer instead of the regular, heavier, coil type (step-down).
Having a number of bulbs running off one transformer can cause a number of problems. To begin with, should one or two bulbs burn out, the voltage would suddenly shoot up, possibly damaging the other bulbs that are still working. Due to the larger size of these transformers a special place would have to be designed to put the transformer where it can be accessed for inspection should there be a need. This can be a nuisance. Another small nuisance is the fact that if the transformer burns out or malfunctions, then ALL the halogen lights will go out.
Smaller electronic transformers, usually fit through the same hole as the fixture. They put out very little heat and make less noise than the coil type transformers. Being that you will have each lamp with its own transformer, should one lamp burn out, only that one lamp would cease to work. It would not cause a voltage surge, thus not causing the other bulbs to be damaged.
Back To Top
-
Can I use any size halogen bulb in my fixture?
Usually using the same size and type bulb that came with the lamp is the best thing to do. If you are talking about the 220V (tube type) bulbs, then it would depend on the way the fixture is built. For instance, if you have a fixture where the bulb is completely covered, putting a larger wattage type bulb in can cause not only the bulb to burn prematurely, but can cause the whole fixture to burn up.
If you are using the low voltage type bulbs (12V), then much would depend on the transformer that was being used. Overloading the transformer will cause it to burn up. Some fixtures cannot handle the heat of a larger bulb.
Sometimes special bulbs are used to reflect most of the heat coming out of the bulb in a certain direction. These are used in special instances, and not replacing with the same type bulb can cause a fire and/or other damage. Before making any changes it is best to ask an electrician.
Back To Top
- How does one calculate the cost of operating a light bulb?
To calculate the cost of operating a bulb for one day - multiply the bulb wattage times the hours per day the bulb is used, divide by 1000, and multiply by the Electric Company's cost per kwh.
For example: 100 watts x 5 hours divided by 1000 x NIS 0.42 = NIS 0.21.
Back To Top
-
Should I replace a fluorescent bulb when it gets old, or wait until it burns out?
There's nothing wrong with waiting until it burns out. However, fluorescent bulbs produce less light (lumens) over time. An old bulb may not only produce 25% less light than a new one, but the color changes slightly overtime. Therefore when replacing just one bulb in a multi-lamp fixture, the new bulb will be brighter and a slightly different color than the others.
Back To Top
-
What is an "electrical fire"?
An electrical fire is a fire started from electrical arcs and sparks. A drape which catches fire from being too close to an electrical heater is not considered an electrical fire.
Electrical arcing and sparking usually occurs in confined spaces such as inside the wall, outlet, appliance, or the attic. Some arcing does occur in the living space from defective appliances and overheated or damaged extension cords.
Smoke detectors provide little advance notice with most electrical fires. The smoke from most electrical fires that start inside walls and attics rises and is vented to the outside via roof vents. The fire weakens the attic support structure, allowing the ceiling to collapse before the smoke detector can detect a fire. Many electrical fires result in fatalities.
Things that lead to arcing and sparking are: poor wiring connections, bad appliance or electrical cords, corrosion at connections (especially aluminum wiring), worn or deteriorated wiring insulation, old outlets, old switches and overhead lighting. When current flows through bad connections small amounts of heat is produced. In the case of overhead lighting, heat is produced any time the lights are ON. Heat deteriorates insulation on the wiring allowing the Black (hot) to White (neutral) or Black (hot) to Ground wire to short out. Large amounts of arcing and sparking is then produced.
Zlan laboratory tests show that wiring insulation can breakdown in less than 30 seconds when the white and black wires are mashed together. Even the best 105 degree-C rated wiring broke down in less than ten minutes. When wiring is installed in junction boxes, outlets, switches and overhead lighting; its length is extended for ease of installing the outlet, switch, etc... This extra wire must be folded (crammed) back into the connecting box. It is common for the wires to overlap each other in the junction box with an applied force of over 50 pounds when the screws are installed.
Back To Top
-
What is the probability of my home catching fire because of electrical problems?
1 out of 5 fires originate from electrical problems according to USFA, ( United States Fire Administration via the National Fire Incident Reporting System). There is a fire every 67 seconds in the US and a fatality every 105 minutes.
Most tragic fires which start at night or in the early morning hours are electrical fires. Check with your local Fire Marshall or news reports.
Back To Top
-
What do you mean by "nuisance tripping"?
A nuisance circuit breaker trip occurs when it mistakes a normal operating condition for a hazardous condition, such as high motor startup currents. A 20 amp circuit breaker must withstand 100 amps of motor startup current.
Also, it is a nuisance to constantly have to reset a defective circuit breaker . However , it may not be defective, it may be a warning that the wiring and its connections are being overloaded with too much current or too many appliances.
Never try to solve the problem of a nuisance tripping circuit breaker by putting in a higher rated breaker; i.e., a 30 amp breaker in place of a 15 or 20 amp breaker. The new circuit breaker may no longer trip, appearing to have solved the problem. However, a bigger trouble has been inserted, the time to trip for a real problem has now more than doubled! And in some cases the breaker may not trip at all.
Today's circuit breaker seldom nuisance trips. This is at the expense of not being able to detect most of the conditions that lead to an electrical fire.
Back To Top
-
What causes arcing in electrical circuits?
Arcing is due to electrical current jumping across an air gap producing heat and a visual light. Low current arcing does not always contain sparks. Some appliances contain acceptable arcing; e.g., the electric drill produces arcs when the electrical contact brushes move from commutator section to commutator section. This type arcing is not hazardous.
Wiring arcing above 5 amps can produce sufficient heat and sparks to start a fire. Today's circuit breaker can only respond to arcing above its rating, i.e. a 20 amp breaker ignores arcing below 20 amps. Today's circuit breaker treats arcing above 20 amps as overload current. But, the circuit breaker has been designed to be slow in its response to intermediate overloads. Further, today's circuit breaker technology (thermal bi-metallic strips & magnetic aids) does not permit a faster response without increasing nuisance tripping to an unacceptable level.
Sparks are the molten metal which is thrown off and have the appearance of a arc welder or 4 th of July sparkler. Electrical fires start after the wiring shorts out and before today's circuit breaker can respond.
Series arcing is arcing current which is limited by the load or appliance current. If a toaster uses 12 amps of current, then an intermittent open in the wiring or connections can only cause a maximum arc of 12 amps. Hence, the arcing current is limited by the appliance current. Should arcing occur at a loose connection, all current passing through that connection makes up the arcing current; i.e. a 12 amp toaster and a 5 amp light could produce a 17 amp arc.
Today's circuit breaker seldom/never trips for series arcing. Any time a switch is turned off, breaking the current to an electrical appliance, a series arc is formed. The greater the current drawn (more watts of power required) by the appliance, the greater the arc that will be developed. Switches are designed to tolerate these arcs; however, a poor connection can easily form in a wall receptacle or appliance plug, where it now becomes an arc source generating high temperatures, which can cause the insulation on the wiring to breakdown. Frayed or broken wiring in extension cords is another source of series arcing.
Parallel arcing is arcing current limited only by the resistance of the wiring and is referred to as short circuit current. When the load/high/black wire comes into direct contact with the neutral/low/white or ground wire maximum short circuit current flows. Typical short circuit currents in a home range from 45 amps to 450 amps. About 65% of the wiring in a 2,000 square foot home ranges between 45 amps and 200 amps. An extension cord can reduce 300 amps of short circuit current at the outlet to less than 100 amps at the end of the extension cord.
It is believed that most electrical fires are started from arcing currents ranging from 30 amps to 250 amps. It should be noted that today's 20 amp circuit breakers are very slow to respond to short circuit currents below 250 amps .
Back To Top
-
Why is arcing considered a serious problem?
By its very nature arcing develops heat in a localized area and produces hot embers in the form of sparks which can then ignite dust, wiring insulation, or other combustibles that may be nearby. This heat may be in an enclosed ceiling or wall outlet box, thereby causing a fire that can go undetected by people or smoke detectors until the fire is beyond control. Also, in most cases the circuit breaker cannot see or detect arcing until it is so damaging that a massive short circuit current has developed.
Back To Top
-
Why is it difficult to protect against arcing?
Improving arcing protection in today's circuit breaker, using yesterday's technology (thermal & magnetic), would increase nuisance tripping beyond acceptability. Today's circuit breaker has three speeds of response; no response, slow response and fast response. These responses are generally grouped by the amount of load current:
No response are arcing currents at or below the circuit breaker's rating. (For a 20 amp breaker, it does not response to arcing at or below 20 amps). Most series arcing occurs in this zone. While series arcing of itself is not very dangerous, it can quickly lead to parallel arcing whose current is only limited by the wiring resistance. See Slow response.
Slow response are arcing currents ranging from 1 to 15 times the circuit breaker's rating. (For a 20 amp circuit breaker the response time is slow for arcing currents between 20 amps and 300 amps). This current range is usually associated with parallel arcing; and, most outlets and extension cords are in this short circuit group. Today's circuit breaker with yesterday's technology offers little or no protection. This is the most hazardous zone and the cause of most electrical fires.
Fast response are arcing currents above 15 times the circuit breaker's rating. (For a 20 amp circuit breaker the response time to overload current over 300 amps is considered to be fast). There are very few outlets (and in some cases, none) in homes and businesses which have a short circuit current rating of over 300 amps.
Arcing is usually the result of an intermittent connection or short circuit. The average current may therefore be low enough to greatly extend the time to trip of the circuit breaker, if the breaker trips at all . For example, even the high current parallel arc may have short duration arcs, and therefore a much lower average current, thus placing it in the "slow response" time zone.
Back To Top
-
How does wire length affect the trip time of today's circuit breaker?
When the wiring shorts out, the longer the wire the longer it takes today's circuit breaker to trip. The delay time between the occurrence of a short circuit (when the arcing and sparking begins) and the tripping of the breaker may vary from a few tenths of a second to several minutes, depending upon the available short circuit current. The variance in short circuit current is due to the type, size, and length of wire installed. In small homes the typical short circuit current, measured at the outlet, varies from 900 Amps down to less than 100 Amps (without extension cord). While in a larger home it may go as low as 30 Amps, at which level the trip time could exceed several minutes! Extension cords dramatically degrade the quality (reduce the short-circuit current) of existing outlets and extend the circuit breaker's trip time.
The longer it takes to trip the circuit breaker, when sparks start flying, the more likely that a fire will be started.
Back To Top
-
Can I do something to help reduce the chance of an electrical fire?
No, not without adding an arc detection device, such as, Zlan's DE circuit breaker. Even though presently there are a few warning signs, such as: warm outlets, flickering lights or warm extension cords, today's circuit breakers cannot detect or trip for these conditions. Often times these arcing conditions are out of sight (inside walls and attics). Both old and new homes and businesses are subject to electrical fires due to arcing.
Electricians are unable to give your wiring a clean bill of health and warrant its safety. Electricians lack proper test equipment for testing for arcing conditions. Even if test equipment was available, hazardous conditions could occur moments after inspection.
Back To Top
How Safe is Aluminum wire?...
Aluminum wire is still approved by the N.E.C. But this on the assumption that everything will be done perfect. Having said that i would like to give a little advice on using aluminum wire when you are building a new home. For the sake of saving a few dollars, it is not worth the safety hazard you face when using this wire. This is not only my opinion but the opinion of many others in the trade. Many times i have been called to repair corroded connections using this wire. Most of the time the aluminum wire had to be replaced with copper. One other piece of advice, before you consider buying a home with aluminum wire you might want to check with the insurance company. Some of them may refuse to insure a house with aluminum wire.
There are a lot of homes that have been wired with aluminum wiring and it would not be financially possible to rewire the entire house or service. There are a few things you can do to make sure that the wiring is not becoming a problem. You should be on the lookout for devices or lighting going on and off. Breakers or outlets overheating. Have the main panel checked for corrosion or loose connections. When adding copper devices or wire to aluminum, make sure this work is done by someone who knows the proper procedure for this type of wiring. A little preventative maintenance can go a long way in preventing future safety hazards. The article below was sent in by a rep. for an aluminum company.
Bob, Thanks for the information you've made available on your site. If possible, you may want to update the information regarding aluminum building wire. Nearly 95% of residential homes built today are using aluminum cable for Service Entrance. The aluminum building wire in use today (the only one approved by the NEC) is the 8000 Series aluminum alloy. Even though this cable is approved for sizes 12 AWG and larger, no manufacturer produces sizes smaller than #8 (for SEU cable)and #6 AWG for single conductor.
I agree, that if someone has aluminum cable in a house older than,say, the mid eighties, chances are it is NOT 8000 series. The previous product was actually the same aluminum utility cable (EC1350) that is still used on power lines today. However, it was a mis-application to bring this product into a house for switches and receptacles. The Aluminum Association, along with cable manufacturers, and CONNECTOR manufacturers set out to rectify this problem, resulting in the 8000 series alloy in use today. Here in Florida, projects ranging from single family homes to Raymond James Stadium, are incoporating 8000 Series for electrical feeders. Just thought you should know.
Here is another opinion from an electrician.
I think your stand on aluminum wire is wrong or stated wrong. I would never use copper in a direct burial service wire. In a case where the wire insulation is damaged underground, both will fail. But copper will "spin" the meter for much longer, causing brown-outs and possible equipment damage over a longer time.
Back To Top
- How is electricity produced in a circuit?
There are atoms in the air, these atoms contain electrons. To produce electricity you need a force to move these electrons. There are several ways to produce this force, the most common being magnetism which can be produced by generators. This force is called E.M.F. (ElectroMotive Force) . As conductors are passed through a magnetic field a voltage (emf) will be produced in each conductor. This voltage will produce the necessary pressure to move the electrons. The movement of these electrons is called electric current or amperage. Thus you have voltage and amperage which along with resistance (the load) make up an electric circuit.
Electricity is one of the great assets we have. Just think for a minute how you feel when your power goes off for a short period of time. Harnessing electricity has improved just about everything in our lives. Electricity begins mostly at large dams and waterfalls, and some nuclear plants. The constant flow of water is used to turn large generators, which through magnetism produces electricity. The electricity is than sent to power lines at extremely high voltages. When it reaches your home from sub stations, it goes through a step down transformer, ( these are the large metal units you see on the telephone pole ) and produces the correct voltage needed for your home.
Q....Reference What does it matter if the air has atoms with electrons unless you are interested in an insulator. It is the atoms in the conductor that have an odd number of electrons in the outer shell of the atom which allows the voltage (pressure) to move electrons from atom to atom. The air has an even number of electrons in the outer shell and is a fair insulator.
A...This website is not interested at this time to get into the entire theory of how electrons are derived from atoms. This can be obtained from many areas on the web. We are only interested in the very basics so that everyone can understand without being bored. Thank you for your input.
Back To Top
- What is GFCI?
Click here to view GFCI Info page
